Thailand: Ayutthaya & Khao Yai

The Idea

Ruins at sunrise, rainforest at dusk, no Bangkok traffic in between

Thailand is easy to plan around Bangkok, and just as easy to regret it. If the capital's crowds aren't your thing, there's a more chill way in: two overnight stops within reach of it.

With about five days, I'd pick Ayutthaya and Khao Yai. One is the old capital, full of ruined temples and a lovely park. The other is wildlife, waterfalls and a slower, greener rhythm. Two places, two moods, and no ticking boxes.

Stay the night in both. A day trip gets you the midday crowds and heat, while sleeping there gets you early mornings and dusk, which is when these places are actually good.

Why I love it

Ayutthaya's ruins were nearly empty and the guides in Khao Yai spotted wildlife I'd never have found alone.

Things I'd Genuinely Recommend

Ayutthaya's ruins at sunrise, almost to yourself
An 11 baht, 45-minute train from Don Mueang straight to Ayutthaya
A night or two in the old capital, with early starts and slow evenings
A guided day in Khao Yai National Park with a local company, leech protection included
Guides who spot the wildlife so you don't have to

A possible flow

Getting there: Don Mueang to Ayutthaya · about 45 minutes

The cheapest win of the whole trip. A train from Don Mueang (DMK) to Ayutthaya cost me 11 baht and took about 45 minutes, and you never have to touch Bangkok itself. There are no ticket machines and the right window isn't obvious, so ask someone before you queue.

If you arrive at Suvarnabhumi Airport instead or start in Bangkok, transfer to Krung Thep Aphiwat to reach the train (20 baht from there).

Ayutthaya · about 2 days (3 if you love ruins)

Two days covered the highlights, but if you're properly into temples and ruins, I'd give it a third. The town itself is small and a bit sleepy in the off-season, which also meant the temples were not as busy. The days were blazing hot and sunny, with only a little rain at night, so start early, rest at midday and pack for the heat.

We used Grab to ride between the further temples, as it provides a much needed AC break, but there is a lot clustered together around the Bueng Phra Ram Park. Tuk-Tuks are widely available but cost pretty much the same (and no AC).

The move east · half a day, so plan this one

This was the trickiest part of the whole trip. The train from Ayutthaya to Pak Chong takes around 2 hours, and only about 5 trains run a day. We paid more for the express, but it was still third class with fans, and it was quite hot nonetheless. It didn't feel worth the 150 baht difference, specially only saving 20-30 minutes, so chip in for a better class instead.

In Pak Chong, Grab wasn't working , so we haggled a taxi for 350 baht to our accommodation. My advice: prearrange a car or a door-to-door transfer, or travel with your own transport. The Khao Yai tourist area is mainly spread along a main road, so not very walkable.

Khao Yai · 2-3 days

Forest, wildlife and waterfalls. The highlight was a one-day tour with a local company that picked us up from our hotel. Our guides spotted the wildlife, handed out leech socks and protection, and gave us tips, so we could just enjoy the walk and the ride through the park. We did not get to see elephants which are the highlight, but we still saw plenty of monkeys and exotic birds like the hornbill. Plus the waterfalls were a nice added stop. Of course seeing wild animals is not guaranteed, but the tour operators try really hard to make you see as much as you can nonetheless.

Insider Notes

Skipping Bangkok is easier than it sounds. If you land at Don Mueang Airport (DMK), the train to Ayutthaya is cheap and quick. Just leave time to sort out the ticket window, because there are no machines working and it isn't obvious which window to use. It is actually the Long Distance Train one.

Off-season has its perks. Fewer people, almost empty temples, hot and sunny days, and just a little rain at night when I went (mid October). Pack a hat, water and light clothes that cover your shoulders and knees.

Respect the temples. Cover your shoulders and knees, don't climb on the ruins, and keep your head lower than any Buddha image when you take photos.

Khao Yai isn't walkable. Everything is spread along the road with long distances in between, and walking means walking on the roadside. Have a car, a driver or a tour sorted before you arrive.

Pick your guides carefully. Our local company gave us leech socks and protection, spotted the wildlife and shared tips. Other groups in shorts with nothing got eaten alive. Choose experienced local operators and check what's included before you book. If your hotel offers a pickup with a trusted tour company, even better.